My Favorite Ingredient (Hint: it’s probably yours too, but for cooking not cosmetics)

I probably could have talked about this subject all day! Commercial companies don’t tend to use olive oil in their products for a couple of reasons; first it tends to be more expensive and second they are a little more challenging to use. But once I got a handle on all the ways olive oil extractives could be used there is no stopping me now! I have even started putting squalane and alkane c13-15 in my eyeshadows. It made a huge difference in the color payoff and makes the shadow even more long-lasting. It blows my mind that I can add a sustainably grown, skin beneficial ingredient and it makes the quality of my natural eyeshadow better not worse. For those who think natural can’t equal highly effective you might have to try some of these natural products. And since this video came out I have been playing with a new olive derived ingredient called NatraSil. It is an effort to replace synthetic silicones with a natural material. It is made from olive oil esters and olive oil unsaponifiables. I am loving it and having all kinds of luck with my formulations.

Talking about my favorite ingredient

Posted by Mix Cosmetiques on Wednesday, February 14, 2018

How is Your Mascara

I know it’s sideways! And I fix it a few seconds into the video. In this video I just talk about some of the basic ingredients I use to make a natural mascara and what they do. I totally forgot to mention the beneficials I use! Those would be hydrolyzed oat protein, silk amino acids and panthenol. All of these are proteins that help strengthen and condition your lashes over time. They help your lashes hold onto their natural moisture and build their collagen bonds. Other than that I think I touch on the rest of the ingredients list. If you have questions, please, feel free to let me know in the comments section below.

Got mascara?!?

Posted by Mix Cosmetiques on Thursday, November 29, 2018

What is My Acid Mantle and What Does it Have to do With Healthy Winter Skin

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

“The acid mantle is a very fine, slightly acidic film on the surface of human skin acting as a barrier to bacteriaviruses and other potential contaminants that might penetrate the skin.[1] Sebum is secreted by the sebaceous gland and when mixed with sweat becomes the acid mantle. The pH of the skin is between 4.5 and 6.2, slightly acidic.[2][3] Since blood is slightly alkaline (7.4), pathogenic bacteria that become adapted to the pH of the skin and are able to reach internal tissues will encounter an environment to which they are less well adapted. This combination of acidic exterior and alkaline interior is one of the body’s non-specific host defenses against bacterial pathogens.”

This is some of the most important knowledge for you to have this winter as you are trying to care for your skin. “Why?” you ask. Because your acid mantle is your first defense against the ravages of dry air and moisture sucking central heat. 

So how do you care for your acid mantle. The first thing I recommend is to stop using soap to cleanse your entire body. I know this goes against everything you hear (and probably shouldn’t be said by a soapmaker), but soap has a pH of about 7-8 and your acid mantle is between 4.5 and 6.2. When you use soap you are actually washing off your skin’s natural barriers. During the winter soap should be saved for the armpits and groin area. The rest of your skin will take care of itself. Even water isn’t the ideal pH for your skin since it is between 6.5 and 7. So what to do!?!

The best way to care for you skin is lots of natural oils. These can be used in a variety of ways to help your skin out and protect your natural defenses. First, how about what oils to use? Go ahead and use any organic, plant based oils that you have available. By this I mean olive, coconut, avocado, grapeseed, sunflower, etc. You should have many of these already in your cupboards. These oils all have a pH that is similar to your skin’s sebum and will compliment your acid layer as well as offer some anti-bacterial and healing benefits. They all have different benefits and skin feels so keep trying until you find the right one for you. Or feel free to ask me and I will provide you a sample pack of several to try.

Second, when and how to apply? Right after you shower you should be rubbing on a thin layer of oil before the moisture has evaporated from your skin. This will protect your skin and offer one of the best ways to fight dryness. Oil also soaks in best at this point when your skin is warm and damp, so it won’t leave you feeling oily all day.

What to do if you are experiencing dryness between showers and don’t want to use oil because it will leave you, well, oily? This is the time to pull out a favorite lotion. Any lotion you use should have been formulated with the skin’s pH in mind and should work with your skin’s natural sebum and acid mantle. The best lotion to use will contain all natural ingredients. The reason lotion works so well is that it contains water to replace the water lost by your skin as well as oils that offer the occlusive (barrier between skin and air) layer of protection from evaporation and environmental stressors. They should also contain humectants which are ingredients like glycerin that draw moisture from the air to your skin. 

I hope this has been helpful in keeping your skin healthy and moisturized this winter. Of course, I am always happy to answer questions you may have. Skin is a subject I have been studying for 13 years and there is more to learn. Feel free to call 206-694-9170 or email anytime. 

Where to Begin? Emulsifier!

When I start thinking about a creating a new product or remaking something from my makeup line the first thing I do is pull out my emulsifiers. Emulsifiers are the foundation for any product. They help makeup adhere to your skin, they mix oil with water, they feel silky, powdery or waxy and they help everything blend smoothly. They are always going to be near the top of the ingredient list. Which means they need to be of good quality because you will be putting quite a lot of it on your skin.
Then I ask myself what you, my customer, want from each product I am making. What kind of lipstick look is hot right now, glossy or matte? Do you want your foundation waterproof or barely there? Should your age-fighting moisturizer soak in quickly or offer rich, long-lasting moisture? Once you help me answer these questions from feedback and testing it often seems like the emulsifier choice becomes obvious. There are tons of options when it comes to emulsifiers, and they all bring something different to the party. The reason I have chosen the ones I use is because I believe in natural products that aren’t petroleum derived and many of you seem to agree. These also have the best skin feel. Some natural emulsifiers tend to feel heavy and sticky, Yuck! Who wants that? So when you see words like Behetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glyceryl Stearate and Sorbitan Olivate don’t be afraid because these things are sourced from plants; mostly olive and canola (not too scary) and they are what is holding all your products together.
 
I am not a paid endorser for Lotioncrafter. I do buy most of my supplies through them though, so you will see their labels repeatedly in the pictures I take and post.

I Am Too Old

I am too old. Everyday the voices say, “What are you thinking?” When I read the blogs, see the pictures, watch the runways, I hear them laughing at me for being so bold as to think I can start a makeup company at my age. I am too old to take pictures with the makeup on my face. I need younger faces, fresher faces, faces with no lines upon their skin, and faces that have not experienced the ravages of the world. I am too old to understand the trends and know what people want. My age makes me irrelevant. I am too old to understand how people buy now and where to meet my customers, “how can you possibly understand social media and context?” they say. Everyday the fear of being too old makes me think that age is the enemy.

And then I realize…those voices have no understanding. They do not know that those lines on my skin have come from laughing with family and friends, those lines upon my face know deep experience and those lines have come from the struggle of learning to do things that don’t come naturally to me. Things like using my words in writing to connect with the entire world. I do not need to look like I am 20 when I am not. I can’t stop the wheels of time, but I can enjoy every minute that goes by. I can be beautiful and relevant at any age. My voices are wrong because I AM NOT TOO OLD and I never will be. #Iamnottooold #mixcosmetiques